tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6732049007302130204.post4009481090317033567..comments2024-03-28T11:25:59.667+00:00Comments on More Cookbooks Than Sense: Signatures: Pounded Tuna with Foie Gras (Ripert)Jon Tsenghttp://www.blogger.com/profile/01916149961326205602noreply@blogger.comBlogger3125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6732049007302130204.post-74951638756735410742012-11-01T21:26:36.987+00:002012-11-01T21:26:36.987+00:00Hullo again Tom!
I think you're right to a de...Hullo again Tom!<br /><br />I think you're right to a degree (the default answer to any crisis in a French kitchen does seem to be to add more butter, a somewhat thuggish response but one that's invariably tasty). I do think though that contrast is also important - either the crunch of the breaking on the trotter or the tendency to pair it with a more acidic sauce - more popularly gribiche but even a buttery bearnaise has some vinegar in the background.<br /><br />I think taking the analogy of pudding wine (which I'm sure you'll appreciate) its the difference between an Aussie botrytis semillon and a good tokay. A Noble One is fun in a syrupy sort of way, but it's a bit flabby. In contrast a good Tokaji (non oxidised please!) has a spine of acidity which cancels out the flabbiness. Substitute dead animal fat for sugar and thats my argument! :-p<br /><br />All the best<br /><br />JJon Tsenghttps://www.blogger.com/profile/01916149961326205602noreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6732049007302130204.post-28624981040302782972012-11-01T20:44:28.643+00:002012-11-01T20:44:28.643+00:00Richness upon richness is one of the secrets of Fr...Richness upon richness is one of the secrets of French cuisine at all levels-think of a breaded pig's trotter with Bearnaise sauce-the point being, of course, that a slice of a foie gras and a slice of tuna is not going to be any richer than two slices of foie gras, but the variety will leaven and season the whole.Tom Blachnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-6732049007302130204.post-37577201150715893442012-10-24T12:23:43.284+01:002012-10-24T12:23:43.284+01:00bravo again.
Adeybravo again. <br /><br />AdeyAnonymousnoreply@blogger.com