Monday, 9 June 2014

Seven Days of Foie Gras BONUS: Turron Foie Gras from Pasacal Aussignac

I originally started off with seven days of foie gras but as a bonus here’s an eighth unconventional foie gras. Haven’t had this one so not entirely sure it works, but it’s so wacky it demands a mention!
Previous entries:
  1. Shaved Foie Gras, Lychee & Pine Nut Brittle from the Momofuku Cookbook
  2. Foie Gras Ganache from Aquavit and the New Scandinavian Cuisine
  3. Steamed Foie Gras with Broad Beans and Peas from Essential Cuisine
  4. Whole Roasted Moulard Foie Gras with Apples and Black Truffles from the French Laundry Cookbook
  5. Hot Foie Gras, Lentilles du Pays, Sherry Vinegar Sauce from White Heat
  6. Foie Gras Five Ways from Charlie Trotter's Meat & Game
  7. Roast Smoked Foie Gras with Onion Mousse from Made in Great Britain

Bonus Recipe: Turron Foie Gras

The dish: Turron is traditionally a rather moreish French nougat. So what’s it doing at Club Gascon, London’s premier foie-gras eatery? Infiltrated with duck liver of course! This is effectively a traditional foie gras terrine, but instead of macerating in port the foie gras is marinated in Baileys and sugar. Then, instead of being studded with truffles, it’s studded with chunk of turron and walnut. To finish it’s dusted with cocoa and served as a dessert with a passion fruit coulis.

Why it’s special: It’s a dessert. With foie gras. Nuff said. To be fair I have no idea if it’s a car crash or really does taste “amazing” as the cookbook says. Actually it may well be both, but as they say you should try everyone in life once apart from Morris dancing and incest… (Pass the jingle bells…)


The Chef and the Book: Pascal Aussignac is London’s unofficial ambassador of Gascon Cuisine and Conspicuous Foie Gras Consumption. After training with sud-ouest master Alain Dutournier in Paris he decamped to London to found a pocket-size restaurant-empire on the edge of the financial district (so far: one-star restaurant Club Gascon, epicerie-cum-bistro Comptoir Gascon and wine bar Cellar Gascon). It vaguely reminds me of Christian Constant’s 7th  arrondisement mini-empire in Paris, just with a higher duck count.

His book Cuisinier Gascon is an enticing combination of the old and the new. Think of it as Memories of Gascony for millennials (Pierre Koffmann even provides the foreword). While regional classics like garbure, poule au pot and cassoulet get a look-in, the spine of the book is the more contemporary cuisine served at Club Gascon. This is unmistakably bolshy, rustic food (think duck hearts with spinach, or beef fillet with oyster sauce) but dotted with off-beat cheffy touches - foie gras with popcorn, pigeon with onion & elderflower and, most outrageously, that turron foie gras. There are many regional cuisine books and many cheffy books, but this is one of the few unmistakably regional cheffy books.

5 comments:

  1. Hi Jon Tseng,
    I've followed your blog for a long time and i really enjoy your cookbooks album. They are so interesting and impressive. I wish i could have one from your books kaka.
    Good job, thanks Jon

    ReplyDelete
  2. Hi Jon,

    Your blog is very interesting - I work at a small publishing company that specialises in cook books and would like to send you over some information and chat about a couple of exciting books that we have out at the moment, as well as a few more that we have in the pipeline.

    Please email me at rachel@mezepublishing.co.uk - it would be great see some of our books on your list of cook books you didn't know you needed!

    Best,

    Rachel

    ReplyDelete
  3. I still come here now and then, to read your old posts, which I enjoyed immensely. Just wanted you to know. I hope you'll still blog on in the future. Best, Suvin

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hey Suvin... Don't worry haven't gone away just had a baby which monopolises much time. I will continue this blog in future - have plenty of ideas! J

      Delete
  4. Hi Jon,

    the last couple of days I have been reading through your entire blog with great interest and pleasure. You strike an extremely well informed note without the snobbery much writing on food seemingly almost inevitably entails. I especially liked your posts on Alain Chapel and David Kinch, exquisite stuff! I hope yourself and your child are doing fine and you will find some time in the future to continue this wonderful blog.

    All the best,

    Sven

    ReplyDelete